Paul Scraton

Paul Scraton

@paulscraton.bsky.social

Telling Stories A Dream of White Horses / Bluemoose Ambassador / Pahar Trust Nepal Travel and the outdoors: https://the-winding-trail.com

288 followers226 following296 posts

What do we want from Tokyo? We’ve been here before, but there is no way any visitor can “know” one of the biggest cities in the world, however many times they visit. So we decided to pick two contrasting neighbourhoods and go for a stroll to see what we could find…

From the north of Tohoku to Tokyo and… wow, that’s a lot of people… …but even in this city you can find quiet corners, perfect for strolling. So that’s what we did. And it’s good to be back. #adventuresbeyondthefrontdoor #thetrip #japan

The stories of the tsunami: In Okawa, 74 children and 10 teachers were lost due to negligent disaster planning and catastrophic decision making on the day. There were 51 minutes between the earthquake and the tsunami hitting the school...

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“Showing people what we have lost gets more difficult as time goes by, but it's as important as ever to do so. It's the starting point for everything else: commemorating those who died, establishing what happened, and preventing more disasters…”

The stories of the tsunami: In Okawa, 74 children and 10 teachers were lost due to negligent disaster planning and catastrophic decision making on the day. There were 51 minutes between the earthquake and the tsunami hitting the school...

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Witness testimony tells us that a number of the children insisted that they should go up the hill. But the people making (or failing to make) the decisions on that day did not allow them to go…

The school was once at the heart of a village with a civic hall and a clinic, a post office and shops, as well as the houses in which many of the children lived with their families. It’s all gone now and just the ruin of the school remains. As the parents and the community behind the memorial write:

The stories of the tsunami: In Okawa, 74 children and 10 teachers were lost due to negligent disaster planning and catastrophic decision making on the day. There were 51 minutes between the earthquake and the tsunami hitting the school...

Behind the school is a path up the mountain. Fifty metres or so up the path is the high water mark. You stand in the playground and look up into the trees and think, ‘if they’d only just gone up there…’ (It’s the little white sign on the picture in the trees)

To the coast. This next couple of days has been in my mind since we planned this trip. The legacy of 2011 and how it shapes what we see here. The desperate stories of the tsunami and the almost unbelievable stories of resistance and hope that followed. Tonight we’re in Kamaishi. My kinda town…

The hills were calling once more so we drove up through glorious autumn colours to the Mikaeri-tōge Pass to hike the Mount Hachimantai summit plateau with its marshlands, crater ponds and spectacular views of Mount Iwate and beyond… #adventuresbeyondthefrontdoor #thetrip #japan

It’s not quite the Panke… the Sunday run in the city centre of Morioka comes with bear warnings at every entrance to the riverside path... #adventuresbeyondthefrontdoor #thetrip #japan #gettingthereslowly

And on to Morioka. Our first exploration at dusk was through a town with a very pleasing 1970s vibe… and a big volcano hanging out and making itself known every so often…

Bashō got here and failed to find the right words for the pine islands. Me too. It is rare that a place can live up to centuries of hype, but Matsushima on a Tuesday morning certainly did…

Sendai, and Irona Yokocho, a covered market that began as a series of stalls in the immediate aftermath of WWII and now is a collection of tiny shops, bars and restaurants that offer kind of time portal and a bit of Shōwa-era nostalgia...

From Nagano to Obuse with the local train. Apples and grapes are growing everywhere. Holiday crowds queue for roasted chestnuts. The leaves are threatening to turn. The mountains surround us, becoming ever clearer as the day goes on until, at dusk, it feels as if we can touch them…

Into the hills… we followed the Olympic Road from Nagano to Hakuba and then caught the gondola for the hike to Happo Pond and its amazing views of the Hakuba Sanzan mountains…

Edo-era gardens, a reconstructed castle, shrines to old Lords, pop-up bookshops and bilingual zines, contemporary art dealing with the aftermath of the 2024 earthquake, craft breweries and sashimi. Kanazawa. Day two. #adventuresbeyondthefrontdoor

The biggest trip since the one where I ended up living in Berlin had begun and it starts here, on a night flight to Narita, a Shinkansen across the country and dusk on the streets of Kanazawa. Welcome to Japan indeed. #adventuresbeyondthefrontdoor #thetrip #japan

Marathon weekend! We’ll be spectating of course, but in honour of all the runners in town we went for a bimble of our own in the park… #adventuresbeyondthefrontdoor #gettingthereslowly

Someone could actually write an email with nice things to say about my writing and I would miss it because of the volume of spam landing about reading groups and book clubs and Amazon profiles… have to say though, the LLMs that they use are getting better at telling me what my own book is about…

Paul Scraton reposted

The railway bridge in Riga is perhaps best observed at night when it is illuminated against the Baltic skies. But we think this fine city is well worth a stopover, especially if you are travelling on Route 32 in our book… Photo © Genadijsz / Dreamstime

Paul Scraton reposted

This is a wonderful newsletter on place and people. The latest edition, postcard #9, considers the restoration efforts of the Elbe River region and value of Rewilding Britain. Two great things that go hopefully together. Well worth the free subscription. #booksky

Paul Scraton@paulscraton.bsky.social

A little call-out for anyone who might be interested. The Winding Trail is the place where I publish my long reads and fields notes, focused on place writing, travel and the outdoors. Subscribe in this instance means you get an email when we publish something new: the-winding-trail.com/subscribe/