EuropeExplored

Day 11. Time to leave Regensburg. When I caught the same train four years ago, it departed two hours late. I'm pleased to report that it is on time today.

Miracles do sometimes happen! Two three hour Deutsche Bahn train journeys today and both of them bang on time. As I did not believe that this could happen, I built in a lot of contingency for our next train. This meant there was time for a late lunch/early dinner near the Porte de Hal in Brussels.

Now on our way home, late, after the usual shambles that is the Brussels Eurostar terminal. The Schengen e-gates were not in operation and only two passport officers to process a massive queue. In a completely new twist, I managed to enter the terminal and board the train without showing my ticket.

Day 11. Time to leave Regensburg. When I caught the same train four years ago, it departed two hours late. I'm pleased to report that it is on time today.

Passing through Würzburg there is a good view of the Marienberg Fortress on a hill above the city, which served as the seat of power of the Prince Bishops of Würzburg.

We had nearly an hour to change trains in Frankfurt, so time for a brief walk along the Main.

Day 10. A bus out east along the Danube to visit Walhalla, the pantheon to the heroes of the German speaking peoples, created by Ludwig I of Bavaria in the 19th century. Although many of the obvious candidates are included, there are some idiosyncrasies, and, in my opinion, some glaring omissions.

The Imperial Diet of the Holy Roman Empire used to meet in the old town hall of Regensburg. You can take a tour of the building, which is something I didn't do last time I came to Regensburg.

As well as having its own city museum, Regensburg also hosts the excellent Bavarian state museum. Between them, they kept us occupied on a wet afternoon. They both had new special exhibitions since I was last here: Regensburg in the 1950s and the early rise of Hitler in Bavaria.

Day 9. We stayed last night in Pilsen in the same hotel as I stayed in 1985. As our room this time was on a different side, I can't recreate the same picture, but the street view 41 years later is virtually identical.

The bus has brought us to Schwandorf in Germany, where we have comfortably made our connection. The train is run by the private operator Alex, using almost vintage rolling stock.

We have arrived in the Bavarian city of Regensburg. I spent a day here the third full Europe Explored adventure, but my wife had never bee.

The Museum of Western Bohemia is an excellent place to spend some time on a cold morning. The permanent exhibition is in four parts: history, archeology, applied arts and the armoury.

The curse of the changed timetables strikes again. We had bought through train tickets to our next destination with reserved seats, only for it subsequently to be replaced by a bus for part of its route. So we depart from Pilsen by bus.

The first impression of Pilsen is that it is a bit grimmer than some other Czech cities, but having wandered about a bit more I think that is unfair.

Day 8. After being serenaded again by the Singing Fountain at 7am, it is now time to leave Mariánské Lázně.

We could not come to Plzeň and not visit the Pilsner Urquell brewery. I had come here in 1985, when my friend and I were the only visitors that afternoon. These days their visitor numbers are rather larger and the whole operation is very much more commercial.

In Pilsen's main square is the Catholic Cathedral of Saint Bartholomew. The building dates from the 14th century, but it was only granted cathedral status in 1993.

Day 8. After being serenaded again by the Singing Fountain at 7am, it is now time to leave Mariánské Lázně.

Plzeň is famous for brewing and gives its name to the pils style of beer. There is a brewing museum, which charts the development of brewing in the city.

There is a network of underground tunnels, dating from the middle ages, under the centre of Plzeň. With a guide, you can explore a section of them.

Day 8. After being serenaded again by the Singing Fountain at 7am, it is now time to leave Mariánské Lázně.

We have come to Plzeň (Pilsen). Its synagogue is the largest in Czechia. It ceased to function as a synagogue in WWII, but the building survived. In the the 1990s it was renovated and restored to its original use.

Day 7. Continuing our exploration of Karlovy Vary this morning, including a visit to its excellent musuem. Until 1945, Karlovy Vary was almost entirely populated by ethnic Germans, nearly all of whom were expelled after WWII.

Our impression of Mariánské Lázně, from a few hours of exploring, is that it is more refined than Karlovy Vary. While Karlovy Vary is squeezed into a river valley, Mariánské Lázně is more spread out with numerous green spaces.

The 'Singing Fountain'. (Sound on - if you wish to listen to (the first half of) Dvořák's Carnival.)

Taking our leave of Karlovy Vary, using the Dolni (lower) station, saving us a walk up the hill to the main station. For this journey, on a tiny one car train, we are using a private competitor to České dráhy,

From one spa town to another. We have arrived in Mariánské Lázně (or Marienbad, as it once was).

Day 6. Time to leave Weimar. It is proving problematic to get to our next destination. When originally planned it was four local trains with nice connections, but engineering work made this impossible. Our longer alternative route, has just failed due to a cancellation. Now on to plan C.

We have arrived in the Czech spa town of Karlovy Vary (or Carlsbad, as it once was). I came here on the Chess Train in 2019, but my wife had never been before. A full explore will have to wait until tomorrow.

This evening we had to promenade while sampling the waters at various locations. Hoping that their emetic properties are not too strong.

The previous train brought us to Cheb in the Czech Republic. As we would have had to wait an hour for our onward connection, we decided to stay longer and explore Cheb Castle.

Time to move on from Cheb. But you didn't expect us not to visit Cheb lovely museum while we were here?

After trundling through the scenic Bavarian countryside, where the leaves are in their autumnal colours, we are changing again, in Weiden, on our continuing convoluted journey today.

The magical mystery tour continues with a change in Marktredwitz. The timetable has opened up an opportunity to do something today on route, rather than later in this trip. So now onto Plan D.

Back to Erfurt to change trains on our hastily replanned route. Our next train is an ICE that is only running 5 minutes late, which is on time by Deutsche Bahn standards.

A comfortable change in Nuremburg. No time on this occasion to visit the Railway Museum next to the station.

Day 5. After visiting the Bauhaus designed Haus am Horn yesterday, today we have been to the Bauhaus Museum to see some of its original fittings.

Our final visit of the day was to the Wittumspalais (Widow's Palace), residence of Duchess Anna Amalia. Widowed aged 18, she ruled Saxe Weimar & Eisenach as regent until her son Carl August reached the age of majority. She was the instigator of attracting the cultural figures of the day to Weimar.

The history continued when we went to dinner. Our restaurant was once the residence of Carl August's mistress. The facade dates from the 16th century, but the vaulted interior, where we ate, is from the 13th century.

Day 5. After visiting the Bauhaus designed Haus am Horn yesterday, today we have been to the Bauhaus Museum to see some of its original fittings.

The small Kirms-Krakow house is furnished with Biedermeir furniture that was fashionable in the early 19th century.

Weimar Castle (Stadtschloss), the seat of hereditary power in the region until 1919, is undergoing renovation at the moment. Luckily, they have reopened a small section of it just a few weeks ago. On display are three paintings by Caspar David Friedrich.

Day 5. After visiting the Bauhaus designed Haus am Horn yesterday, today we have been to the Bauhaus Museum to see some of its original fittings.

The playwright and poet Friedrich Schiller was a contemporary and friend of Goethe in Weimar. You can visit Schiller's house.

Weimar's main church is dedicated to Saints Peter & Paul. It is also known as the Herderkirche, after Johann Herder, who lived nearby. It has a superb altar triptych by Cranach the Elder.

Day 5. After visiting the Bauhaus designed Haus am Horn yesterday, today we have been to the Bauhaus Museum to see some of its original fittings.