Jean-Baptiste Jeangène Vilmer

Jean-Baptiste Jeangène Vilmer

@jbjv.bsky.social

Ambassadeur de France en Tanzanie. Ex-ambassadeur au Vanuatu et aux Îles Salomon. Ex-directeur @irsem.bsky.social. PhD, ex-postdoc McGill, ex-lecturer War Studies King's College London. Codir @lerubicon.bsky.social | www.jbjv.com

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#ZANZIBAR 11 (and last) – Just behind Mtoni Palace, the beach comes alive in the golden light of late afternoon. An extraordinary gathering of locals playing football, swimming, washing their zebu cattle or donkeys in the sea, or simply strolling along the shore.

As the sun begins to set, the beach becomes a vibrant gathering place for all generations. No monuments, no tourist attractions, just the rhythms of everyday life by the Indian Ocean. A beautiful way to bring this series on Zanzibar to a close.

#ZANZIBAR 10– A short walk from Mtoni stands Maruhubi, built around 1882 by Sultan Barghash, son of Sayyid Said and half-brother of Princess Salme. This lavish coastal retreat housed his harem: his wives and many concubines.

Walled gardens surrounded the palace, and an aqueduct fed its baths and ornamental pools. Massive stone columns carried a wooden upper storey. A fire destroyed much of Maruhubi in 1899; the columns, baths and traces of the aqueduct still stand.

#ZANZIBAR 9– Before Stone Town's grand palaces, there was Mtoni. Built by Sultan Sayyid Said around 1830 on Zanzibar's coast, it housed his family, his court and many enslaved people. His daughter, Princess Salme, later estimated its population at around 1,000. 1/2

Born at Mtoni in 1844, Salme described its maze of rooms, groves and baths in her memoirs, first published in German in 1886. After leaving Zanzibar to marry a German merchant, she became Emily Ruete and moved to Hamburg. Only ruins remain today. 2/2

#ZANZIBAR 8– Why the Spice Island? For centuries, cloves shaped Zanzibar’s Indian Ocean trade. Agriculture remains an economic pillar alongside tourism, with clove growing especially important on Pemba, providing livelihoods for thousands of farming families.

At a Zanzibar spice farm, every plant has a surprise: cinnamon’s bark, but also roots with a striking menthol-like scent; turmeric, cloves, cardamom and vanilla, among many others. The island also grows jackfruit, pineapple, starfruit, cocoa and coffee, to name just a few.

Spices are not just for food or export. Herbal medicine remains important in Zanzibar, using leaves, roots and bark in traditional remedies. Combining African, Arab-Islamic and Indian Ayurvedic influences, these practices remain part of everyday life for many families.

#ZANZIBAR 7– Beyond Jozani’s monkeys lies another remarkable ecosystem: the mangroves of Chwaka Bay, within the same national park. These salt-tolerant trees thrive in tidal waters, their extraordinary networks of exposed roots forming an intricate natural landscape.

Those tangled roots do more than anchor trees in the mud. They help mangroves breathe in oxygen-poor soils, shelter young fish and crabs, trap sediments and protect coasts from erosion. Mangroves also store large amounts of carbon, making their conservation vital.

#ZANZIBAR 6- 🐒 Meet Jozani Forest’s two resident monkeys! The endangered Zanzibar red colobus, found naturally only in the archipelago, and Sykes’ monkey, also known as the blue monkey. Two distinctive primates sharing the same lush tropical forest.

Spot the difference! Red colobus monkeys have striking black faces, white hair and reddish backs. Blue monkeys are actually grey-brown, with distinctive white throats. Colobus feed mainly on leaves, while blue monkeys enjoy fruit, insects and more.

More than neighbours: red colobus and Sykes’ monkeys sometimes travel together in mixed-species groups. Researchers suggest that Sykes’ monkeys may use the larger, noisier colobus groups as cover to avoid human attention near farmland. An intriguing coexistence.

#ZANZIBAR 5- Into Jozani Forest, heart of Zanzibar’s only national park 🌿 Fed by a high water table, this rare groundwater forest teems with towering trees, palms, pandanus and ferns. Twisting trunks and leaning branches weave a spectacular green canopy.

#ZANZIBAR 4- A French landmark in Stone Town! Built by French Spiritan missionaries to plans attributed to an architect from Marseille, St Joseph's Cathedral celebrated its first Mass on Christmas Eve 1898. Its twin spires remain iconic features of Zanzibar's skyline.

#ZANZIBAR 3- In the 19th century, Stone Town was East Africa's largest slave-trading centre. Tens of thousands of men, women and children captured on the mainland passed through Zanzibar each year, destined for markets overseas or forced labour on clove plantations. 1/2

The slave market closed in 1873, but slavery was not legally abolished in Zanzibar until 1897. Today, the site, its museum and Swedish artist Clara Sörnäs's 1998 memorial of chained figures preserve this painful history and remind us of its human cost. 2/2

#ZANZIBAR 2- Among Stone Town’s most famous treasures are its beautifully carved wooden doors. More than entrances, they were statements of wealth, status and identity, telling the story of Zanzibar’s centuries of exchange across the Indian Ocean.

Check the top of the frame: older rectangular designs reflect Arab/Omani influences, while rounded arches became popular with Indian merchants in the 19th century. And those brass spikes? An Indian tradition, said to have originally deterred elephants.

Look closer at the carvings: Qur’anic inscriptions express faith; lotus flowers, fish and date palms evoke prosperity. Chains are often read as symbols of security. Each door offers clues, though no single motif tells an owner’s whole story.

#ZANZIBAR 1- Less than two hours by ferry from Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar is a perfect weekend getaway: Indian Ocean scenery, spices, Swahili culture and remarkable heritage. First stop in this series: Stone Town, the historic heart of the archipelago. 1/4

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Winding alleys, coral-stone houses, ornate balconies and bustling markets: Stone Town is far more than an open-air museum. Its architecture, cuisine and everyday life reflect the remarkable blend of influences that have shaped Swahili civilisation over centuries. 3/4

Zanzibar welcomed a record 917,167 international visitors in 2025, up 25% in a year. France was its second-largest source market, after Italy. Stone Town remains a highlight, offering visitors a unique immersion in the island’s rich history and cultural heritage. 4/4

#ZANZIBAR 1- Less than two hours by ferry from Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar is a perfect weekend getaway: Indian Ocean scenery, spices, Swahili culture and remarkable heritage. First stop in this series: Stone Town, the historic heart of the archipelago. 1/4

Stone Town tells the story of centuries of Indian Ocean trade. A crossroads between East Africa, Arabia, India and Europe, it was once the capital of a powerful sultanate. Its historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. 2/4

Excellent déjeuner avec mon collègue Zakaria El Goumiri, ambassadeur du Maroc en Tanzanie. Son engagement pour la Francophonie à Dar es Salaam fait vivre, ici aussi, notre partenariat d’exception renforcé, fondé sur la culture, les liens humains et le dialogue.

A delegation from the Directorate General of Armaments (DGA) of France’s Ministry of the Armed Forces visited Tanzania this week. An opportunity to strengthen dialogue on defence and security and explore future cooperation between two Indian Ocean neighbours.

Good discussion with Susan Ngongi Namondo, United Nations Resident Coordinator in Tanzania, on migration and refugees, Ebola preparedness and regional health security, El Niño-related climate risks, and how France and the UN can strengthen development cooperation on the ground.

Good discussion with Susan Ngongi Namondo, Uited Nations Resident Coordinator in Tanzania, on migration and refugees, Ebola preparedness and regional health security, El Niño-related climate risks, and how France and the UN can strengthen development cooperation on the ground.

Pleased to meet Joyce Charles Bayachamo, ICRC Head of Mission in Tanzania. From training armed forces in international humanitarian law to protecting the vulnerable, the ICRC’s work matters. France is proud to co-lead the Global IHL Initiative to uphold humanity in war.

What happens when art meets archaeology? The French Embassy invited French comic book artist Emmanuel Lepage to Tanzania to work with Dr Makarius Itambu Peter, archaeology lecturer at the University of Dar es Salaam. Together, they explored the heritage of the Swahili coast.

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From Kunduchi near Dar es Salaam to Kilwa Kisiwani, Songo Mnara and Zanzibar, their journey traced centuries of Swahili history. Lepage’s drawings captured not only ancient mosques, palaces and ruins, but also streets, fishermen, markets and the life along today’s coast.

On 15 October, Lepage led a drawing workshop at the French School. That evening, at TPH Bookshop (Mkuki na Nyota Publishers) in Dar es Salaam, he and Dr Itambu shared their journey with the public and projected drawings made along the way. From fieldwork to creation and public dialogue!

What happens when art meets archaeology? The French Embassy invited French comic book artist Emmanuel Lepage to Tanzania to work with Dr Makarius Itambu Peter, archaeology lecturer at the University of Dar es Salaam. Together, they explored the heritage of the Swahili coast.

Funded by the French Embassy in Tanzania, with support from Alliance Française de Dar es Salaam, this residency brought an artist and a scientist together in the field. On site, Itambu shared archaeological insights while Lepage sketched what he saw: two ways of reading the past.

1/2 According to Tanzania’s official 2025 visitor survey, France ranks 3rd among source markets nationwide, after the US and Italy (7% of surveyed visitors). In Zanzibar, France ranks 2nd, after Italy (10.6%).

Pleased to welcome Lt Col Olivier Baglin, our Defence Attaché based in Moroni, to Dar es Salaam. As a resident Indian Ocean power, France shares key security interests with Tanzania. Maritime security, regional stability and military cooperation are central to our dialogue.

Delighted to meet Tanzanian Defence Minister Dr Rhimo Simeon Nyansaho. As an Indian Ocean nation, France shares security interests and challenges with Tanzania. Great potential to deepen our defence cooperation, particularly on maritime security and regional stability!

Good discussion with the International Organization for Migration's Ashraf Hassan, Franz Prutsch & Sikhulile Dhlamini. Tackling irregular migration, human trafficking and migrant smuggling is a key priority for France in the region. Cooperation with origin and transit countries and IOM is essential.

It was a great honour to present my Letters of Credence to H.E. President Samia Suluhu Hassan today, 15 October 2026, at State House in Dar es Salaam. This marks the official beginning of my mission as Ambassador of France to Tanzania.

My ambition is to strengthen our partnership as equals, grounded in mutual respect and shared interests, with a focus on practical cooperation, stronger economic and people-to-people ties, and tangible results that benefit both our countries.

Honoured to present a copy of my letters of credence to Foreign Minister Mahmoud Kombo today. An opportunity for an in-depth exchange on France-Tanzania relations, from concrete bilateral cooperation issues to major regional and international challenges we face.

🌊 Last week, Dar es Salaam hosted #COP12 of the Nairobi Convention, protecting the Western Indian Ocean. France is its only European member, thanks to its Indian Ocean territories. 🎥 Everything you need to know about the Convention in 85 seconds, with our colleague Elisa!

France supports Tanzanian filmmakers through the Alliance française of Dar Es Salaam , the Création Africa Fund, and our Embassy. Sinema Mamboleo will help 10 filmmakers develop and produce short films with mentoring, grants and post-production support. ➡️ Apply by 15 October!

📽️ A wonderful visit to Olchorovus, near Arusha, to meet Maasai farmers supported by Belgian NGO Îles de Paix through a project co-funded by France. Sustainable farming, food security and climate resilience in action. And such a warm welcome from the local community!

👨‍🍳 The French Residence in Dar es Salaam is hiring a new Chef! Passionate about French cuisine, creative and eager to showcase local ingredients? Join our team! 📅 Apply by 18 October 📩 CV + cover letter: sga.dar-es-salam-amba@diplomatie.gouv.fr

👨‍🍳 La Résidence de France à Dar es Salaam recrute son nouveau chef ! Passionné de gastronomie française, créatif et désireux de mettre en valeur les produits locaux ? Rejoignez-nous ! 📅 Candidatures avant le 18/10 📩 CV + lettre : sga.dar-es-salam-amba@diplomatie.gouv.fr