Matthew Rowley

Matthew Rowley

@mbrowley.bsky.social

Write | Lift | Travel | James Beard finalist | Past Southern Foodways Alliance board | Contributing editor, Oxford Companion to Spirits & Cocktails | 🏡 San Diego | Typos no extra charge.

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At the gym, others wear Vuori, Jed North, Adidas, etc. Me? T-shirts for BBQ joints and butcher shops, distilleries and spirits brands, local restaurants and food shops. Concert tees? Pfft. No. It’s food and booze (the reason I’m at the gym in the first place) all around.

House de-hoarding continues. Day…9, maybe? Third day of a professional crew filling a dumpster now. Finally able to access the house’s third story. Remains of my childhood up there. Found yesterday: a stack of early- to mid-1980s D&D material. And a James Tiptree Jr. book from Arkham House.

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I’ll walk this one past the dumpster to the curb. Someone driving by will want a good condition Weber grill. I would, too, if I lived in town. Alas, no. Purge on, babies. Whatever you have lying around the house you don’t use, get rid of it. No reason to leave that for your family to deal with.

House de-hoarding continues. Day…9, maybe? Third day of a professional crew filling a dumpster now. Finally able to access the house’s third story. Remains of my childhood up there. Found yesterday: a stack of early- to mid-1980s D&D material. And a James Tiptree Jr. book from Arkham House.

And a closet full of Star Wars toys. AT-AT, Millennium Falcon, this Darth Vader case. So many others. Damn, I must’ve kept Kenner in business back in the day. Or at least my pockets empty of any walkin’ around money. If I had the time, I’d sell them. Prolly going in the dumpster, too.

Chicken-fried steak Kansas City Country Club Brother scored his usual table by the hearth. So, an actual fireside dinner. Staff know that they don’t have to add logs when he’s there; he loves doing it. Green beans with CFS are often long-simmered “kilt” variety. Here: still with a touch o’ crunch.

Some argue that the brown gravy makes this country-fried steak rather than chicken-fried steak. Semantics, schmemantics. We’ll split the diff and call it country-clubbed.

Walking to the car. Hand on arm. Mom, 92: This motto: “We choke our own chickens.” I don’t know exactly what that means. Me: Mm-hmm. Mom: I suspect it’s something salacious. Me: You’re on the right track. Exeunt omnes. I am full of fried goodness. Not taking one more bite. Particularly on that.

Matthew Rowley@mbrowley.bsky.social

Yesterday’s one nice thing: dinner at Stroud’s (motto: “We choke our own chickens”) in Kansas City. Chicken-fried steak, fried chicken, fried pork chops, long-simmered green beans, extra gravy, mashed potatoes. Martini and an Old Fashioned. Leftover cinnamon rolls for breakfast. Satis.

In Kansas City de-hoarding a house. Not my house, not my hoard. As bad as anything you’ve seen on tv. We’ve spent months preparing. Attorneys, therapists, junk haulers, etc. Yard mostly cleared now. The biohazard/crime scene cleanup company comes next week. Exhausted, y’all, by the mystery of it.

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Which is a roundabout way of saying: I’m still going to be sporadic here for some time. At least until this is resolved. Until then, I’ll still prolly be slow to respond. Honestly, there are times in my respirator, gloves, and wellies when i don’t dare even touch my phone.

Yesterday’s one nice thing: dinner at Stroud’s (motto: “We choke our own chickens”) in Kansas City. Chicken-fried steak, fried chicken, fried pork chops, long-simmered green beans, extra gravy, mashed potatoes. Martini and an Old Fashioned. Leftover cinnamon rolls for breakfast. Satis.

In Kansas City de-hoarding a house. Not my house, not my hoard. As bad as anything you’ve seen on tv. We’ve spent months preparing. Attorneys, therapists, junk haulers, etc. Yard mostly cleared now. The biohazard/crime scene cleanup company comes next week. Exhausted, y’all, by the mystery of it.

I try to do one nice thing for myself each day. Not unbridled treat-yo-self moves: small things. Went to a bookstore. Got a little pastry. Went out for a Martini. This morning? A beard trim with a hot towel and straightedge. Have always kept my own beard in check. Turning over the reins for once.

Twice now in Kansas City, clerks in small shops have told me the price of what I’ve bought (once a secondhand Nicolas Freeling book, once a bánh mì), saw me bring out cash, and immediately lowered the price.

Older relatives and friends, less able or concerned about reading a room, can drag small talk re: health into mind-numbing tedium. Our family rule: you get five minutes to cover ailments, maladies, MD visits, and internal complaints, then must change the topic. We call that the Organ Recital.

Reading in the exit row: Steak Zine. Guy next to me is a big foodie. He clocks it. We talk food and restaurants in various cities. Eventually he says: “You feel super familiar.” This sometimes happens. “Are you,” he ventures, “in porn?” Ah. No. Not at the moment. Anyway: Steak Zine. S’good.

Driver: Which terminal? Me: B Driver: As in…? Me: Bravo To myself: Ah, yes. The NATO phonetic alphabet. I know it well. Alpha Bravo C… Cthulhu Dagon, no: Denethor Eurydice Foxtrot

More. A young mind corrupted by books and film. Gargantua Hyperion Inka cola Jörmungandr Kalamansi Lothlórien Mastoid process Nostromo Ozymandias Pantagruel Quint Ra ra Rasputin Septimus Hodge Teesside parmo Ubu Roi Vendetta (obviously) Wendigo Xenomorph Yalta Conference Zed and Two Noughts

No shoes inside, you’ll note. I returned to San Diego because we had a dinner for 20 people this week at the house. I left a few seed shoes at the front door. Next morning, I discovered someone had trod in dog shit, then walked—squish squish squish—up to our door. This is why we take shoes off. 

Matthew Rowley@mbrowley.bsky.social

We had rainy days in New Jersey w Irish cousins last week. Perfect nights in a wind-buffeted house at the ass-end of a shore town with pounding surf. Fire in the hearth and hot whiskey (which Cork cousin calls Punch) flowing. I brought sugar, cloves, lemon, they the whiskey. A good deal.

Boardwalk Wildwood, New Jersey Irish cousin: It’s made of boards. Me: It is. IC: In Ireland, we hear about the American boardwalk, but it never occurred to me that you literally walk on wooden boards. And do people really kiss under them? Me: Among other things.

I am home for a total of four days this month. Otherwise elsewhere. A quick check on the garden reveals two lime trees absolutely freighted and bowed with fruit. There’ll be cocktails & tacos upon my return. Anyone have a recipe they’d vouch for (not merely found) for Peruviano Leche de Tigre?

Make it raaaain! (But make it monkeys)

Otto English@ottoenglish.bsky.social

For the billionth time, "putting inspirational people" on British banknotes is a relatively modern phenomenon. Even the Queen didn't appear until 1960. Animals on money, however, are a much older idea. There was a wren on the farthing way back in 1937.

And let’s not forget the axolotl on Mexico’s 50-peso banknote:

Matthew Rowley@mbrowley.bsky.social

Nowhere on Earth will you see a greater biomass of Chihuahuas than in Mexico City. In recent years, though, two Mexican animals are giving the tiny trembler a run for its money in Mexican art and design: xoloitzcuintle and this adorable lil fecker on 50-peso notes: the axolotl (aka el ajolote).

Driving. New Jersey. Heard a song. Recognized it from Back in ye Day. Aphasia kicked in and I could NOT articulate the band’s name. What came out: “Stygian Cabaret.” Me: Come on, man. That ain’t right. It’s got the guy. With the hair. With the hair and the lips. 20 minutes later: “Aerosmith.”

La Carneada from Argentine chef Juan Pedro Rastellino details his caring for a pig for a year, then slaughtering it for chorizo, chistorras, black puddings, salami, leberwurst, lard, bondiola, etc. En español. No recipes, but detailed descriptions. The day itself is broken down by the minute.

Here’s the thing, though: the author and photographers understand that images of the slaughter itself can be disturbing, so those pages are uncut. If you want to view them, you yourself must cut the pages open. Not the same commitment as opening a pig, but the parallel is undeniable.

Snacks before guests arrive. Kalbsleberwurst chub from Rieker's Prime Meats in Philadelphia (my go-to German butcher in Philly for nearly 30 years). On the side: a short pour of Old Emmer wheated bourbon (a private label from Total Wine, bought on a lark. 45% ABV, about $45).

Moon and Stars watermelon. Size of a racquetball when I was home last. Forgot to weigh it, but it was dense and heavy last night. The rosy pink flesh was riddled with seeds (which: saved for next year), crisp, and v sweet. An outstanding garden haul. Plant, eat, repeat.

I’ll be in New Jersey then—but South Jersey, not near enough. If you’re closer, you should attend. And if you don’t like Martinis, you should.

Evan Rail@evanrail.bsky.social

Tell your NYC friends that the great @davidwondrich.bsky.social will be hosting a a multi-course Martini dinner with history & lore about the cocktail, a killer menu and a bunch of smart Martini variations at the Knickerbocker Hotel on Oct. 6. www.theknickerbocker.com/experiences/...

[transcription in alt text] In 1937/38, about 50k Irish schoolchildren in 5K schools collected stories from their communities. Paddie Clarke of Cordoagh tells a joke: “It was the custom in a certain district that everyone that would kill a pig would give a piece of it to his neighbours…”

This is not a humblebrag; I would save so much time if I had the discipline to bang out 1000 words for the first draft every time. It happens, sure, and those are good days, but I typically leave a lot on the cutting room floor.

Same friend at an art gallery in New Orleans: I just love those little dock’s end dogs. Me: F: Me: The what, now? F: Cuz they help fishermen. Me: F: At the dock. Me: Well, that sounds fun. Pick your battles. Meanwhile, the poster that prompted the discussion:

Matthew Rowley@mbrowley.bsky.social

Rugby clothes? Ugh. Autocorrect. GRUBBY clothing. Wish we had hedgehogs here. Locals are so unfamiliar with them that we had to explain, gently, to a friend that they were not juvenile porcupines. Baby animal names: kittens, puppies, joeys, and…hedgehogs.

So there I was, pool towel around my waist and shotgun in hand. 5am. I’d heard this noise for the second morning in a row. Sounded like someone in the living room. No one. I stood silent, as still as a stone, listening. The moment stretched. He: Is it rats? Me: Too big. He: Raccoon? Me: Maybe.

Our home is old for California, built more than a century ago. Days here have been hot, the nights cool. Tentative assessment: wooden joists under the house are reacting to changes in relative humidity. He: It could be ghosts. Me: It’s not ghosts.

Nowhere on Earth will you see a greater biomass of Chihuahuas than in Mexico City. In recent years, though, two Mexican animals are giving the tiny trembler a run for its money in Mexican art and design: xoloitzcuintle and this adorable lil fecker on 50-peso notes: the axolotl (aka el ajolote).

Arrived while I was away: Kate Ryan’s new (Sept 2026) ‘Blood, Guts & Black Pudding: Ireland’s Dying Art of Blood as Food.’ Ireland is not unique in its blood-eating (Germans, Filipinos, Maasai, Cajuns, and French—to name a few—also indulge), but I’m particularly looking forward to biting into this.