Kalor

Kalor

@plasticpizza.bsky.social

Too many models at a time

50 followers18 following144 posts

I wish some tabletop figure sculptors like DM Stash would offer their figures in 1:35, 54mm or real 75mm scale. Their fantasy designs are awesome, but 95mm tall figures are too exhausting to paint.

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ok, perfected :D. Secret was in covering dough with a pot, this way moisture is kept around and skin doesn't burn -> it allows bread to rise properly, crack and release steam. Previously I had this issue where crust solidified too early and inside just boiled inside :/

ZTZ-100, I think I got the base color, looks a bit too light but I think with the rest of the digital camo and weathering it will even out.

I'm honestly disgusted right now that I'm on a verge of dropping that hobby entirely. How the fuck I'm supposed to manage dust from textiles in my home? I already switched to dust free paper towels, I clean all the time, yet biggest traitor is on me.

Ok. I found I do not enjoy painting fantasy armour/clothes now, 3D sculptors go crazy with ridiculousness of sculpts. With models, I'm blocked with airbrushing now so the closest completable thing is this commando 'Kieffer' from BlackSnake Models, no leather, no metal, great.

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Back to the bench, I'm fixing figure that started that whole shitshow with paints. I can finally blend them, no more bird poop, although color selection isn't that nice. Anyway it's better. New olive handle is fun too :D

I'm back with new handles :). Bubbinga(yes it's that red), Olive and oxidized Padouk. African blackwood(shit is heavy and hard as rock), Nambian rosewood and Canarywood. Also I made an magnetic insert for when smooth rotation is needed.

Testing pure black primer for 1:35 military. + higher color range than with white - PITA to cover all small black patches, may look unfinished -> I prefer it to zenithal -> may try some less black colors -> will try it for sure, should be excellent for darker uniforms

Testing 3rd gen and ionics, I'm happy with them tho I would prefer to not have to do this. And I still had to finish with vallejo, bc ak's samples doesn't match real paint at all.

Fuck it, I'm repainting. - I went with dark wash/dirt firts, that stained the whole surface and it was hard to put dust over it - I shouldn't put wash around each rivet, that emphasized them too much - green should be put first not last, yellow and whatever they call silvergrey I'm not sure yet

Few days ago I complained that I have to play whack-a-mole with brushstrokes on volumetrics. Yeah, there was reason for that, I had this issue on mind for quite some time, but it clocked only when I looked at this photo: Do you see highlights that look like bird's poop?

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Also huge amount of matting agent, which is bigger than pigment particles, they put into these paints makes them harder to dilute, at some point they break and became very chalky. Yeah, they improved coverage but at the same time made them unusable for glazing, as paints and as a painted surface.

Well, I put much more effort in debugging my hobbies than my job. I'm just pissed that I didn't noticed right away, and wasted a lot of time repainting figures. At least last issue is identified so progress can be made. Except I have several tanks to finish :/

Few days ago I complained that I have to play whack-a-mole with brushstrokes on volumetrics. Yeah, there was reason for that, I had this issue on mind for quite some time, but it clocked only when I looked at this photo: Do you see highlights that look like bird's poop?

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To put it simply, it is paint fault: they have way too much matting agent. Thing is, when dried paint is too matte, surface is very rough it pulls paint in every direction. That makes brush strokes more visible and transitions sharper. Adding more mediums won't help, it makes paint thicker.

Matte finish also makes shadows less intense and figure more flat due to a way how surface disperses light - on broader area than e.g. satin paint. This gives that 'frosty' look to dark paints.

Few days ago I complained that I have to play whack-a-mole with brushstrokes on volumetrics. Yeah, there was reason for that, I had this issue on mind for quite some time, but it clocked only when I looked at this photo: Do you see highlights that look like bird's poop?

This wasn't an issue year ago when I painted leather jacket too. See, here higlights are clean, I had easier time painting faces, blending is smoother and details are better. I remember it was also more enjoyable, there wasn't that much fighting.

I folded and finally bought 60mm macro lens. Apparently regular lenses, even if sharp, aren't sharp at close distances. 60mm also offers better perspective and frame fill. It was frustrating to get proper shots, if it was only for socials, I wouldn't care, but I need them to review what I did.

Aand I'm out of the parts to glue, there is only some wires to add, some gap filling and rescribing left. I think Takom could put a bit more effort like resolve some parts better or assure better positioning of elements. It makes me dig into modern stuff more, like M10 Booker. Someday.

BecauseI have enough shit to open my own shop, but I'm kinda losing interest the moment I but box on the shelf. Always looking for something new. Anyway I'm going to finish that nude demoness and pause minipainting for a few days, I'm starting to get burned out with painting almost every evening.

I was working on the Bulldog when I touched raw plastic of a broken roof support. I realized I hadn't built anything in months, suddenly I found myself feeling severe withdrawal symptoms, I had to open a new kit or go crazy. So ZTZ 100, seems to be easy kit, no base, desert camo, no figures.

A bit of exhibitionism. I've finally bought some pinboards, hang shelves for speakers and now I have whole desk clear. While on this I bought more plants for eye relief. Last photos while it's in pristine condition.

FFS, rolled steel armour should not have any kind of texture with raised details. Not even the frontal plate of a Tiger II, indentations, roll marks if you need but not cast texture, rolls can't produce that. By the time of WWII they were already building huge steel ships for 100 years.

This thin here? It's not steel, it's corrosion and layers of paint. Second one? It was pulled from a river and restored from scraps, surviving hatch is heavy rusted, it's not a texture of a vehicle.

Just because it looks better to some people, you should not mindlessly do that. Besides, if a factory delivered something like that during wartime, heads would roll for sabotage.

Replying to @plasticpizza.bsky.social

Paints: On zenithal, VMC German orange wash to give it some pinkish base. VGC Succubus skin + VMC Red leather for shadows paints above + VMC Sunny skintone + VMC Basic skin for midtones * I didn't put much thought into selecting them, it's my first time when I got so far with that big areas of skin