Topvint

Another Saturn! This time from a lot I got from Japan, sold to a customer whose Saturn had failed and was looking for a replacement. Full refurb, including retrobrigthing and recap, region-free BIOS and FRAM swaps. Works like a charm! Check all the process below 👇

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topvint.co.ukPre-modded consoles - Topvint

That's it for this one. I have a few more in the pile which I will get to when I have a break in the orders. You can always check my pre-modded consoles in case I put up anything, or ask me if you have any specific queries. topvint.co.uk/product-cate...

Now the BIOS and the FRAM. In this model there is no epoxy gluing the chip, which is a relief! Bought some more FRAM chips as this is a popular mod.

Some testing with both PAL and NTSC games. Only a japanese ones showing in the pics because I forgot to take the picture of my PAL copy of SEGA Rally 😁

Next was the optical drive, which was really dirty. Disassemble a recap, lubrication and clean. Did you know that you have to desolder the laser and spindle motors to access the PCB and do the recap? 🥵

Let's wash that shell and put it in the retrobrighting chamber. Always a bit of a jigsaw to fit all the parts as my chamber is somewhat small.. but has UV light from all sides, including the lid (not in the photo!)

While this was one of the ones in best condition from the lot, still had a lot of scuffs and was mildly yellowed.

Inside was just dirty but not rusty. First step was to fully disassemble the console and recap the motherboard

Order #6591 This time I installed a Retro GEM into a 39003 PS2. Since doing this with the stock PSU is not possible, the customer sent a RePS2 as well I'm getting the hang of these HDMI installs now 😅 Process and more pictures below! 👇

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topvint.co.ukSend-in Services - Topvint

From all the Retro GEM installs, only 3DO is left. I am looking forward to doing one of those! In the meantime, check all my services in my website! topvint.co.uk/product-cate...

The RePS2 board fits easily but needs an extra bracket to stay tightly in place. The SPIF line needs soldering the GEM to enable digital audio (including Dolby Digital and DTS surround sound). Testing, all good!

Did you know that you can output both analog and digital video and audio? 😁

Finally the audio side of the flex, reset line and 5v line also needs hooking up. The ribbon will need to be folded and routed through the space left by the toslink port.

Now, mounting the actual GEM board isn't straight forward in this one. We need to shave off the plastic from the PSU power connector and trim the pins, mount the board in a mildly complicated bracket contraption, and slightly wrestle it into position.

Is also best to place some kapton tape around the soldering pads to avoid unintended joints under the ribbon cable.

There is a separate ribbon for the controller port

Preparation for this requires first to sacrifice the Toslink port (digital audio) as that's where the mini HDMI port will be located. It also best to replace the crystal with a lower profile one, to make space for the ribbon cable

topvint.co.ukSend-in Services - Topvint

Order #6588 I refurbished, fully recapped, installed a region-free BIOS and an FRAM mod into this SEGA V·Saturn! This is the second Victor Saturn I work on and I love the different branding. Want to see what I did? Check below 👇

If you like what you are seeing, check out my website for send-in services. If you don't see something you want listed, get in touch as is quite possible I can also do it! topvint.co.uk/product-cate...

While I recapped the PSU, customer asked me to install a modern one. To be honest, I'm not sold on 12V barrel PSUs... you still need an external brick with the right connector, while something like a USB PSU, you can potentially use your existing setup and cables 🤷

Time to test some games!

This model has a doubtherboard for the the controller ports. I have recapped many of this 😊

On the optical drive, I disassembled it and cleaned it, while recapping it as well. In Saturn optical drives (as is also the case in other consoles), you need to desolder the motors to be able to remove the bottom PCB were the capacitors are

I found the two V·Saturns I have worked on to have plenty of epoxy under the chips, which is an issue with removing them! Using some aluminium tape to protect the surrounding area. Better safe than sorry!

The FRAM chip is the same size than stock but the BIOS is a bit longer. In both chips, a few pins need lifting an connected to power and ground

Some more pictures of that branding before opening it up!

The console was in good state so the TLC focused on cleaning and later lubricating the optical drive. The console was also slightly yellowed in one corner, so I retrobrighted it.

8 Sept

I recently refurbished, modded and reshelled this OG Xbox. Customer also provided a custom jewel. I am not so much for dyeing crystal shells but I have to admit it looks pretty nice 😎

8 Sept

The shields were sanded and repainted, and a 500GB SSD installed alongside a Startech SATA2IDE adapter and an ASUS UDMA ribbon cable. A ModXo modchip with PrometheOS was also installed, Cerbios 3.1 in bank 1, and the UIX Lite dashboard 😊

topvint.co.ukOriginal Xbox - Topvint

8 Sept

Check my website if you are interest in original xbox mods! topvint.co.uk/product-cate...

I refurbished this PC-FX I recently got from japan, and it ended up working great 😁 I always buy "junk" items and many times they look bad but end up working just fine, although other times repairs I needed. Want to see what I did? Check it below! 👇

I plugged it into my external step down power supply and tried the only game I have. It works! notice how yellow the controller is compared to the console... I need to find a way of whitening that too!

I am adding PC-FX services to my site, but given how complex this console is to take apart and recap, and how many parts it has to retrobright, is going to have to be more expensive than other similar services

While the shell soaked I turned my attention to the CD drive. Pretty standard stuff... will it work when I put all back together? 🤔

The retrobrighting took 3 loads even if I only did the external parts 😁In the end it all came out quite well. Then spent like an hour putting all back together worried that I missed an screw somewhere 😂

The main board has through-hole caps and the sub-board mostly SMD caps, apart from two "hidden" through-hole caps installed as surface mounted, a la GameGear style. There is also a super capacitor. Thankfully Console5 had the right kit.

Having suffered the pain of disassembly, I decided to wash and retrobright the console before reassembling. I had to remove the switch that tells the CD that the lid is closed, and thought I'd sand the contacts slightly to ensure good connection. That's a lot of plastic parts to wash...

Slide side panels out, unclip the front panel, unclip and unplug the top laser assembly, unscrew and unclip back panel, unscrew and remove shield and main board and both earth cables, remove PSU, unscrew and remove shield and sub-board, remove 3 plastic extension brackets and bottom shield...

And the two boards also have a soldered extra shield, which took a fair amount of super-wick to remove 😥

The PC-FX was the 32 bit entry to NEC's line of consoles, which peaked with the 8/16 bit PC-Engine . The PC-FX never left Japan, probably due to its commercial failure, and was the last console NEC released. The PC-FX can't really do 3D graphics in a generation where 3D was king, like PS1 or N64.