John Walton

John Walton

@thatjohn.bsky.social

Editor in chief of @theupfront.media: in-depth independent aviation journalism at the heart of the passenger experience. Subscribe today! Journo, #JohnDoesJapan travel expert, bon vivant, big old nerd about a lot of things. 🏳️‍🌈 w/the 🏳️‍⚧️, 🇫🇷 in 🇪🇺, he/him

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I think we could all do with some 400-year-old flowering ume (flowering Japanese sour plum-apricot) bonsai in our lives. This is the 75th anniversary Nagahama Bonbai (ume bonsai) Exhibition. And this incredible 400-year-old tree is Furo, meaning Eternal Youth. #JohnDoesJapan

sometimes, when I travel around Japan, enjoying places most tourists don’t go, I wonder what it’s like for people a good foot and a bit shorter than my hulking 6’3” form to suddenly encounter an enormous purple foreigner

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modern Japan really isn’t doesn’t pose many tall people problems except sometimes at small restaurants where the chairs are *super* low the only place I bump my head is a castle or small temple room, not in, like, the Shinkansen or the Toyoko Inn or a FamilyMart

but like my bed in the Toyoko Inn and wherever is a pleasing two metres long or something, which is better than a LOT of beds in hotels elsewhere m i can sleep on my front and not have my ankles hanging off the bed which is lovely, but like… what does that feel like for old Mrs Tanaka who is 4’6”?

sometimes, when I travel around Japan, enjoying places most tourists don’t go, I wonder what it’s like for people a good foot and a bit shorter than my hulking 6’3” form to suddenly encounter an enormous purple foreigner

like, obviously there are tall people in Japan, especially among younger generations who grew up with modern nutrition and whatnot but there are also a lot of elderly folks out there who didn’t start out tall, and have now shrunk a bit and perhaps stoop a little now

i genuinely have no frame of reference — it would be like me standing next to an 8-foot tall person or something, in proportion, or maybe an Ent, i don’t know it’s gotta be weird, though, enormous purple man walking cheerily down your street when you live close to a railway museum or whatnot

So, the little two-car vermilion-coloured vintage diesel railcars on the closest track? After waiting out the typhoon… *Mariah Carey whistle tone* it’s tiiiiiiiiiime

John Walton@thatjohn.bsky.social

Change of hotel, change of station view — and to one of my favourites in all Japan, the Toyoko Inn Okayama-eki Nishi-guchi Migi (that’s Okayama station west exit right, because there’s one to the left too).

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Just a stunner of an evening trundling slowly through the Okayama countryside from Tsuyama. Delightful Totoroesque rural inaka vibes, gorgeous light peeking through the clouds, and the diesel depot at Okayama to finish off. Chef’s kiss. #JohnDoesJapan

From a KiHa 47 to an N700 Shinkansen feels like another world. And in many ways it is: narrowgauge to standard, diesel to electric, a pinnacle of Japanese engineering. Doesn’t make me love the old KiHa experience any less, though. In fact, I love it more because it sits alongside… this.

So, the little two-car vermilion-coloured vintage diesel railcars on the closest track? After waiting out the typhoon… *Mariah Carey whistle tone* it’s tiiiiiiiiiime

John Walton@thatjohn.bsky.social

Change of hotel, change of station view — and to one of my favourites in all Japan, the Toyoko Inn Okayama-eki Nishi-guchi Migi (that’s Okayama station west exit right, because there’s one to the left too).

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Look, I’m not saying the KiHa 40/47 in their original configuration — like this one — are massively comfortable for more than an hour if you’re a six-plus footer like me. But they were made for Japanese height averages in 1977. And I have ibuprofen. #JohnDoesJapan

Just listen to the throaty rasp of that faintly underpowered 50-year-old diesel. So gorgeous. (If *you* happen to be a gorgeous 50-year-old diesel of a fella, feel free to shunt yourself into my DMs.)

So, the little two-car vermilion-coloured vintage diesel railcars on the closest track? After waiting out the typhoon… *Mariah Carey whistle tone* it’s tiiiiiiiiiime

John Walton@thatjohn.bsky.social

Change of hotel, change of station view — and to one of my favourites in all Japan, the Toyoko Inn Okayama-eki Nishi-guchi Migi (that’s Okayama station west exit right, because there’s one to the left too).

So the KiHa 47 is my *second* favourite vintage railcar still operating — it’s the two car version of my all-time favourite, the one-car KiHa 40. 50 years old next year and still going… #JohnDoesJapan

These old KiHa 47s are so great. Full of character, delightful vintage paint colours, real analogue vibes — apart from the updated displays and tap-to-pay system on board. One of the real joys of any #JohnDoesJapan trip.

These stories of 80-plus-year-old flight attendants still flying are just so insane to me. That’s a safety-related job, with gruelling hours, hard schedules and physical requirements. I don’t plan to retire at 60, but also I’m not in charge of getting 300 people safely down slides after a crash.

Flightradar24@flightradar24.com

Carol Fair’s career as a flight attendant began more than 63 years ago. Today, American Airlines’ most senior FA is operating her final flight before retirement. Congratulations Carol! Track her final flight on Flightradar24 at www.flightradar24.com/AAL733/424c0...

I love my parents (80 and 85 this year!) but neither of them should be put in charge of an emergency evacuation, overhead bin firefighting situation, medical crisis, honest to god fistfight, or any of the myriad other issues cabin crew encounter on a daily basis.

Change of hotel, change of station view — and to one of my favourites in all Japan, the Toyoko Inn Okayama-eki Nishi-guchi Migi (that’s Okayama station west exit right, because there’s one to the left too).

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It just got a bit wet in Okayama, but elsewhere there was some local flooding and a few train cancellations. All in all, glad I stayed put and enjoyed the view.

It always amazes me how seemingly random the development around Japanese train stations can be, even in major cities. On the south side of the tracks: an enormous new apartment building. On the north side: a rural-sized convenience store and some two-storey houses. These Shinkansen go to Tokyo!

Change of hotel, change of station view — and to one of my favourites in all Japan, the Toyoko Inn Okayama-eki Nishi-guchi Migi (that’s Okayama station west exit right, because there’s one to the left too).

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One of the things you have to be prepared for when in Japan in the autumn is typhoons. I had a bunch of small rural line riding planned, but that’s exactly the type of spot that gets a landslide and then you’re stuck in Higashinishi-Kitaminami, population -21, and very wet.

So I holed up in a Toyoko Inn with a great view, stocked up from the (new-ish!) Lawson right outside, and had a writing day. Also, let’s be real, a train-watching day. Cmon, it’s #JohnDoesJapan, of course there were trains.

Change of hotel, change of station view — and to one of my favourites in all Japan, the Toyoko Inn Okayama-eki Nishi-guchi Migi (that’s Okayama station west exit right, because there’s one to the left too).

As with many Shinkansen stations, Okayama’s is elevaated above and parallel to its slower conventional line station, which now serves regional, commuter and freight rail. As you can tell from the flashy lights, it’s also a commercial and entertainment hub.

There’s something absolutely magical about sitting and watching the trains, while listening to a podcast or audiobook, sipping on some hojicha tea, and watching the darkness fall.

John Walton reposted

It’s a good job this hotel room is not my office, because I’m not sure I’d ever get any actual writing done. Every paragraph would just tail off into, like, “and the importantrainsssssss” #JohnDoesJapan

John Walton reposted

Replying to @thatjohn.bsky.social

There’s something so absolutely magical as a Japanese city turns from afternoon to evening to twilight.

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Look, I don’t *just* love the 500 Series because the regular car seats are purple. But it sure doesn’t hurt.

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It’s a good job this hotel room is not my office, because I’m not sure I’d ever get any actual writing done. Every paragraph would just tail off into, like, “and the importantrainsssssss” #JohnDoesJapan

John Walton reposted

Them: Are you drinking the— Me: —the commemorative 500 Series Shinkansen bottle of Meiji coffee milk, on board set V8, one of the last two 500 Series trains in regular passenger operation? Yeah, I am. #JohnDoesJapan

Them: Are you drinking the— Me: —the commemorative 500 Series Shinkansen bottle of Meiji coffee milk, on board set V8, one of the last two 500 Series trains in regular passenger operation? Yeah, I am. #JohnDoesJapan

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So long, 500 Series! Truly you are a fantastic train, and I feel like I’ll want at least one of you per Shinkansen track of my N-gauge layout… #JohnDoesJapan

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Replying to @thatjohn.bsky.social

Friends, the 500 Series just makes me so happy — truly, it is the A340-600 of trains. I’ve ridden it often in its Kodama dotage, and I’m still firmly of the opinion I’d rather it than a 700 Series any day. Those new N700(A)/A/S, though… #JohnDoesJapan

Them: Are you drinking the— Me: —the commemorative 500 Series Shinkansen bottle of Meiji coffee milk, on board set V8, one of the last two 500 Series trains in regular passenger operation? Yeah, I am. #JohnDoesJapan

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Mmm, hear the power of the fruits of 1997 engine technology… look, I love the new quiet N700S as much as the next person faintly overstimulated by Japan! Trains! Everything! But there’s just something about the throaty hum of the 500 Series. #JohnDoesJapan

Like all contemporary Shinkansen, the 500 Series even had smoking rooms — which have been out of use since 2024, quite the recent date. Modern successors now have multi-purpose rooms (for nursing, or unwell travellers, or the use of disabled folks) in this kind of space. #JohnDoesJapan

Them: Are you drinking the— Me: —the commemorative 500 Series Shinkansen bottle of Meiji coffee milk, on board set V8, one of the last two 500 Series trains in regular passenger operation? Yeah, I am. #JohnDoesJapan

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#JohnDoesJapan travel tip: if you’re on the Kodama west of Shin-Osaka — or the Sakura, or I *think* even the Mizuho — reserved standard class seating is either declassified Green Car, or a special seat in 2-2. Unreserved is 3-3, and there’s no Green Car on the Kodama, so it’s basically free Green.

Them: Are you drinking the— Me: —the commemorative 500 Series Shinkansen bottle of Meiji coffee milk, on board set V8, one of the last two 500 Series trains in regular passenger operation? Yeah, I am. #JohnDoesJapan

Friends, the 500 Series just makes me so happy — truly, it is the A340-600 of trains. I’ve ridden it often in its Kodama dotage, and I’m still firmly of the opinion I’d rather it than a 700 Series any day. Those new N700(A)/A/S, though… #JohnDoesJapan

Japanese placenames crack me up sometimes. I'm in Okayama tonight. That's 岡山, or, literally, Hillmountain. I'm here a bit unexpectedly because I was planning to be exploring the rural railway lines of Mountainmouth Prefecture (that's Yamaguchi, or 山口), but there's a typhoon en route.

I've learned from experience that Japanese train lines shut down at will during typhoons, so even if you end up wasting a day or two of Japan Rail Pass it's better than getting stuck on the three-trains-a-day line halfway back to Wideisland. (That's Hiroshima, or 広島.)

(Me, naming things for a D&D campaign or fantasy novel or whatever: the capital must be called Felthendor, greatest city of the Five Kingdoms, gold-domed home of the Thendori people, the Sunset City, Haven of the Eastern Sea! Japan: tokyo means east capital)